The Three Must Buy Cookbooks of 2011

I always write a series of 'best of' cookbook posts around this time of year. I've recommended a lot of cookbooks in 2011*, but there are three, you simply must add to your collection. They are written by three amazing women who I admire tremendously and feel honored to have gotten to interview or at least meet. They are not just wonderful cooks and writers but cultural anthropologists who dig deep into how people cook, preserving traditions and making food from other places accessible. These books would make great gifts, but really, I recommend buying them for your own collections, that's how good they are.


There are lots of books about Spanish food. I know, because I have plenty of them, but The Food of Spain
is truly the mother of all Spanish cookbooks with over 600 pages. It has stories, history--it's a true treasury that took years of work to complete. I know this because Claudia Roden told me about the work that went into the book when I interviewed her last year (Claudia Roden interview part 1 and 2)

I've said it before and I'll say it again, Claudia Roden's recipes work. They make sense and give just the right level of detail. In this massive tome she uncovers so many more recipes than what you will find in run of the mill restaurants. In The Food of Spain you will discover many fascinating cultures that have influenced Spanish cuisine and recipes both familiar and rare. It's as much a book about food as it is a cookbook.

Dishes you will want to try include Eggplant with Bechamel and Cheese, Fish Stew with Peppers and Tomatoes, Migas with Bacon, Onion Coca.






What can I say about Paula Wolfert that hasn't already been said? She is the most well-known authority on Moroccan food and The Food of Morocco is one of her most important books. Having lived in Morocco for years, she has a depth of knowledge that is just unparalleled. But if you have spent any time with her, you will be struck by her genuine enthusiasm for capturing the details of the cuisine and her drive for perfection. Her recipes are meticulous. Like Claudia Roden, she goes well beyond the surface to discover the history and varied influences that make for such a rich cuisine. Her latest book is over 500 pages. You can read my interview with her from 2009 here.

The book also has plenty of tips and advice to help you get it right, from the different types of couscous to explanations as to why steaming is better than boiling. There are lots of shopping resources too.

Dishes you will want to try include Lamb with Onions, Riffian Split Pea Soup with Paprika Oil, Almonds and Hard Cooked Eggs, Double Cooked Red Chicken Marrakech Style, Barley Grits Couscous with Fresh Fava Beans





It might seem surprising that I put Lisa Fain in the same category as Claudia Roden and Paula Wolfert, but if you spend some time at her blog or reading her wonderful cookbook, The Homesick Texan
, you will see why I do. Lisa Fain's passion and connection to her Texas heritage and food shines through in everything she writes. She treats the cuisine of Texas with such respect and warmth that you can't help but appreciate it too, even if you are not 'homesick' for it.

Unlike Roden or Wolfert, Lisa Fain is not an outsider, but a native who shares her own personal stories. And if she can make Texas recipes work in a New York apartment kitchen you have to know they will work for you too. Her book is a little over 350 pages.

Dishes you will want to try include Calabacitas (Squash and Pork Stew), Poblano Macaroni and Cheese, Coffee Chipotle Oven Brisket and Watermelon Salsa.


*Other cookbooks I reviewed and recommended in 2011:
Cooking My Way Back Home, Kokkari, Bi-Rite Market's Eat Good Food, The Family Meal:Home Cooking with Ferran Adria, 100 Perfect Pairings, Basic to Brilliant, Y'all


The Homesick Texan and The Food of Spain were review copies, I purchased The Food of Morocco

DO NOT REPRINT WITHOUT PERMISSION! ©2011 Cooking with Amy. All rights reserved. This material may NOT be published, rewritten or redistributed without permission. If you are reading this post somewhere other than Cooking with Amy, the Oyster Local blog or Gather.com, then the site where you found this post is illegally publishing copyrighted material.

Grocery Shop, July 10

Bought at DeMille's Farm Market in Salmon Arm.

Corn, kale, leaf lettuce, 2 kinds of apples, blueberries, cherries, carrots, potatos.  Missing: loaf of cheese bread.

IDLY SAMBHAR–HOTEL STYLE

I learnt this Sāmbhar from my neighbour. Its very simple. Usually for hotel style sambhar we used to roast & grind some spices and add. But for this sambhar just besan flour is enough.I had tasted this kind of sambhar in some hotels especially in Tirunelveli and Madurai.Do try this and let me know how it turned out.

INGREDIENTS

For 4 persons.

• Toor dal – 1/4 cup
• Carrot –1  no
• Potato – 1 no
• Tamarind –Small berry size
• Tomato – 2 nos
• Small onions / shallot – 10 nos
• Curry leaves – few
• Sambhar powder – 1- 2 tsp.
• Turmeric powder – a pinch
• Asafetida – 1/4 tsp.
• Besan flour – 2 tsp.

To temper

• Mustard seeds – 1/2 tsp
• Methi seeds – 1/4 tsp
• Urad dal – 1/2 tsp
• Red chilly – 1 no

To garnish

• Coriander leaves – few

METHOD

Pressure cook toor dal adding turmeric powder , asafetida and a drop of oil.Cook the vegetables separately . Heat a kadai with oil and sauté the onions & tomatoes. Saute till tomato turns mushy. Now add the tamarind extract and sambhar powder. Add more water if necessary.Add the cooked vegetables , little asafoetida and fresh curry leaves. Allow it to boil for few minutes. Then add the cooked and mashed toor dal. Dilute the besan flour with little water and add it to the sambhar. Boil well for few minutes .The sambhar starts to thicken. Add more water if necessary. Finally switch off the stove and garnish with coriander leaves. Temper with the above items and add it to the sambhar. **For relatives, add a tsp of ghee at the end and close the bowl. Yummy , aromatic sambhar is ready to enjoy with piping hot idlies , vada or pongal

TIPS

If u want the sambhar to be more tangy add lime juice at the end after switching off the flame. For idly sambhar, dal should be dominant and less tamarind is added. So i've added more dal and less tamarind. For more spiciness , add green chillies while sautéing onions and tomatoes. If u feel the sambhar is too thick , add more water , little tamarind extract , salt and sambhar powder. Boil for sometime . Similarly if u think , the sambhar is more spicy or tangy , add little besan flour and water , allow it to boil. Adjust salt.. I find the above step as very useful because makeup is very essential for each recipe to get the correct taste. That too for beginners these points would be very useful , thanks to my neighbour.

Bread Baking Babes 3 Year Babe-eversary!

3 years!

What lasts 3 years anymore? Not much.

What started for me 3 years ago with this baking group became something important and inspiring in my life. A group of ladies from different countries, different lives, different ages, different experience levels became Babes and friends and made a forum where we can talk and share both our triumphs and tragedies in bread and in life.

To celebrate our Third Anniversary of our group we decided to take a walk down memory lane. Bake a bread from our archives.

When we first made the decision, I thought I might made 3 breads, one from each year of Babe-hood, but man. I hate to say I don't have the time or energy right now. So I picked one I was most proud of the first time around.

I chose to make Gorel's Brunkans Langa bread again.

What I love about this bread is the color, the rustic shape of the loaf, the hearty and just slightly sour taste. I also love that although this is a bread that takes time (5 days), it is not a difficult bread. It's an easy bread when you want to bake but don't have a day or large chunk of a day to devote.

My beautiful Babes, past and present! I raise my glass to you. Thank you for the last 3 years. Thank you for your kindness and friendship and support and inspiration. I can't wait to see what we'll do next.

Cheers!

Go West! Wai‘anae, Oahu

No matter how many times you have been to Oahu, it's quite likely you have never been very far West of Honolulu, to Wai'anae. It's not the easiest part of the island to farm because it's hot and dry, but it is where you will find some very inspiring people working hard to achieve sustainability for the land, for the food system, and for the benefit of everyone.

Eighty five percent of food in Hawaii is imported and Monsanto is now using some of the old plantations to produce genetically modified seeds. If anyone can turn the tide and bring back a more sustainable way of life, a way of life the people of Hawaii once enjoyed, it's the farmers and ranchers of Ma'o Farms, Kahumana Farms and Naked Cow Dairy. Seeing their work will give you hope for the future. They are all cultivating a deep love and respect for the land that nourishes, called 'aina in the Hawaiian language.


Ma'o Farms is a certified organic farm and education center. Ma'o produces salad greens, row crops, cooking greens, fruits and herbs. It also produces farmers! In a region plagued by homelessness, crime, obesity, drug use and unemployment they are training local young men and women to work on a farm. They are also helping to pay for their college tuition. They are farmers but see themselves as co-producers.

I walked through the fields and nibbled on the greens plucked from the ground, citrus and herbs. Everything tasted tender, sweet and vibrant. Their produce is available at farmers markets and virtually all of the best restaurants in Honolulu.


Like Ma'o Farms, Kahumana Farms also serves multiple purposes. In addition to a biodynamic farm there is a cafe, a retreat and transitional housing for families in need. They are growing all kinds of things including taro and are experimenting with herbs and plants with healing powers.

The food at the cafe is fresh from the farm, reasonably priced and delicious, served with aloha. I had some pasta with wonderful macadamia nut and basil pesto served with a piece of simply prepared fish and a green salad.


Naked Cow Dairy is run by two sisters, Sabrina and Monique, who never intended to be 'cow girls' let alone cheese makers. There used to thirty dairies on the West side of the island, but when the last dairy on the island closed, they saw a need and chose to fill it. Traditionally 95% of all feed was imported, but they are working with local farmers to create silage for the cows. They have twenty Jersey, Holstein and half breeds and have been producing butter for two years, three batches per day. Whole Foods sells their butter, their cheese and yogurt goes to chefs and farmers markets.

The butter is 45-52% butterfat and very similar to European butter. It is some of the sweetest butter I ever tasted, amazingly fresh and clean tasting. Sabrina has a culinary background and has made some uniquely flavored butters including an outstanding toasted coconut version. The sisters are hoping to make feta, cream cheese, havarti maybe cheddar. But mainly, like their farmer neighbors, they are hoping to make a difference.

My thanks to the Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau for hosting me on this visit

DO NOT REPRINT WITHOUT PERMISSION! ©2011 Cooking with Amy. All rights reserved. This material may NOT be published, rewritten or redistributed without permission. If you are reading this post somewhere other than Cooking with Amy, the Oyster Local blog or Gather.com, then the site where you found this post is illegally publishing copyrighted material.

OATS BARLEY IDLY–FERMENTATION METHOD

I got an idea of making barley idly from here. I followed the same recipe. The idly was super soft and tasty. I was not able to find i added barely.Thanks Aruna.Nowadays i make this idly very often.I wanted to make some changes to the recipe by adding oats and tried sterday.My hubby was surprised & asked me whether i've added oats and barley because there was no change in taste or smell from the usual idly.Only the color of idly was changed.He was very happy to have this idly for breakfast and dinner.I made dosas too. It was crispy and yummy..

INGREDIENTS Barley – 1 cup Idly rice / par boiled rice/puzhungal arisi – 3/4 cup Oats – 1/2 cup White round urad dal – 1/4 cup Methi seeds – 1/4 ts Salt & water – as needed.

METHOD

Wash and soak all the above ingredients for 5 hours. Before soaking , rinse and drain for 2-3 times to remove the dust in barley. Grind it smooth by adding the required water and salt. Ferment it for a minimum of 12 hrs or over night. The next day ,batter would have raised or sometimes doubled. (based on weather) Make idlies by steaming in idly pot.It takes about 15-20 mins for cooking. Check it by inserting the tip of the spoon. If it comes out clean , idly is cooked. U can make  crispy dosas also by adding water to the batter. Dilute the batter, mix well and make dosas. Enjoy soft , healthy idlies with sambhar or chutney !!

POINTS TO REMEMBER

Please rinse the barley and other ingredients for a minimum of 3 times to remove all the stones and debris before soaking. Please soak barley for 5 hours at least. if  u want , u can soak and grind urad dal & methi separately and then grind rice , barley , oats  together .Finally mix both the batters and keep it for fermentation. Being lazy , i soaked and ground everything at once. Also while grinding add water in small quantities whenever needed.It takes 25-35 mins for grinding. The consistency should be of normal idly batter consistency. If u want to reduce the quantity of rice , u can make it to half cup and follow the same recipe. U can increase the quantity of oats and try the same . Please don't reduce the ratio of urad dal as it gives the soft idly.If u want to use less urad dal , try adding rice flakes or cooked rice for softness. Fermentation is very important here. If it doesn't ferment properly , i cant guarantee u about the taste and softness.

KITCHEN CLINIC

Barley: a nutritional powerhouse As cereal grains go, barley is a winner when it comes to good nutrition.  This centuries-old grain is packed with fiber, contains important vitamins and minerals, is slim on fat, and, like all plant products, cholesterol-free.  Here's a closer look: Fiber Barley is a great source of dietary fiber and actually contains both soluble and insoluble fiber.  Soluble fiber is effective in lowering blood cholesterol and can reduce the risk of heart disease.  Soluble fiber is also beneficial in slowing the absorption of sugar and reducing the risk for developing type 2 or non-insulin-dependent diabetes. The insoluble fiber found in barley may be beneficial in helping the body maintain regular bowel function.  Insoluble fiber may also help lower the risk for certain cancers such as colon cancer. Cholesterol and fat Like all plant foods, barley is naturally cholesterol-free and low in fat.  A 1/2-cup serving of cooked pearl barley, a typical grain serving, contains less than 1/2 gram of fat and only 100 calories* *Source: USDA Nutrient Database for Standard Reference 13 (November 1999) Vitamins and minerals Barley contains several vitamins and minerals including niacin (Vitamin B3), thiamine ( Vitamin B1), selenium, iron, magnesium, zinc, phosphorus and copper. Antioxidants Barley contains antioxidants, which are also important for maintaining good health.  Specifically, antioxidants work to slow down the rate of oxidative damage by gathering up free radicals that form when body cells use oxygen. Phytochemicals Barley contains phytochemicals, which are natural plant-based chemicals.  Studies indicate that phytochemicals may decrease the risk for certain diseases such as heart disease, diabetes and cancer.  More research is needed to confirm these results. HEALTH BENEFITS Barley is rich in dietary fibre, which gives food to the friendly bacteria present in the large intestine. These bacteria ferment the insoluble fibre content of the barley to form butyric acid. The acid, in turn, functions as the main fuel for intestinal cells. Besides this, it is functional in maintaining a healthy colon. The dietary fibre in barley aids the production of acetic acids and propionic acid as well, which sever as the fuel for liver and muscle cells. Propionic acid also restricts the action of HMG-CoA reductase, which is involved in cholesterol production in the liver. In this way, barley helps in reducing the cholesterol level in blood. The dietary fiber in barley binds to bile acids and helps dispose them through the faeces. The cholesterol level in the body is, thus, reduced to a considerable extent. The friendly bacteria that are fed by barley's insoluble fiber also help in removing the pathogenic bacteria from the body. Barley is rich in niacin, which is highly effective in reducing the risk of cardiovascular diseases. It prevents the oxidation of LDL, by the free radicals. Niacin also lowers the assembling of platelets, which can lead to the clotting of blood. The cereal is effective against diseases like atherosclerosis, diabetes, insulin resistance and ischemic stroke. Barley's rich content of insoluble fiber helps women fight against the formation of gallstones. It is rich in phosphorous, which has an integral part in the formation of body cells' structure. Phosphorous is highly required for the formation of mineral matrix of the bones. Besides, it is an important component of compounds like ATP, nucleic acids and lipid-containing structures, like nervous system and cell membranes. Barley helps in maintaining a healthy intestine. It helps in decreasing the transit time of fecal stuffs and also increases the bulk. As a result, the risk of colon cancer and hemorrhoids get reduced to a considerable extent. The cereal contains copper, which reduces the symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis. Copper is also required for the activity of lysyl oxidase, an enzyme required for the cross-linking of collagen and elastin. These substances provide the basic substance and flexibility to bones, joints and blood vessels. The cereal contains plant ligans, which get converted into mammalian ligans by the friendly flora present in the intestines. They are said to provide protection against breast cancer and other hormone-dependent cancers, apart from being known for their effectiveness in case of heart diseases as well. Barley can prove to be extremely helpful in curing childhood asthma. It substantially lowers the risk of diabetes also. Caution Barley belongs to the grain group called 'Gluten grains', which lead to some allergic reactions in people. People who have allergic disposition to wheat products can have gastrointestinal upset with barley products also. Barley dust may cause eye, sinus or nasal irritation in some people. If contaminated with fungus, barley can cause Kashin-Beck disease (KBD), which is associated with bones. Cooking Tips Before cooking barley, you should rinse it properly under cold running water. Thereafter, remove stone and any debris, if any. After rinsing barley, mix one part with three and a half parts boiling water or broth. When you find that the liquid has started boiling, turn down the heat. Cover the container and allow it to simmer. You should simmer pearled barley for around one hour and the hulled barley for about 90 minutes, to cook it. You can mix barley flour with wheat flour and make breads and muffins out of them. You can add barley to any stew or soup and give it an extra flavour. Cracked barley or barley flakes can be used to make hot cereal. Kinds of Barley Barley nutrition today comes in all forms possible. The grain, the leaves and the extract of barley are all used as food sources. Here are some of the most widely used forms of barley nutrition: Hulled barley. Barley in its hulled form contains the most amount of nutrients. However, hulled barley takes a lot more time to soak when used with usual dishes. Barley Grass. Barley grass, most especially on the young leaves, are excellent sources of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and antioxidants. Though it does not contain as much dietary fiber as can be found in barley grains, it contains chlorophyll which can help detoxify your body from harmful toxins. Barley Green Powder. Due to the superior medicinal benefits of barley, many companies now produce barley powder which are made from pure barley grass. Most of them have delightful flavors and superior solubility that people take them as barley juice. Barley Flour. Flour made from barley can be used as substitute for wheat flour or even cake flour. The flour that is produced from whole barley is a lot more nutritious than flour from pearl barley mainly because the bran in the former is still left intact. Barley Water. The main claimed benefit of barley water is in supporting the kidneys especially in times of stress. It is also used as a therapeutic water for those who have kidney and bladder ailments. Pearl Barley. Pearl barley is what you can find in groceries. These are hulled barley which have been processed to remove the bran. As you can see, barley nutrition comes in all forms, so it is easier for us to take advantage of its nutritional benefits.

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Apple Blackberry Galettes

I've made these pastries several times over the last month, trying different shapes, fillings, etc.  For pickups, turnovers work great, but for desserts that get plated, these galettes contain twice as much fruihen and are terrific when people are sitting, and forks are available.  Directions for the turnovers follow. I've used Pink Lady apples here, because you need an apple that won't give off too much liquid.  The apples stay firm and the sweetness nicely complements the blackberries (if unavailable, try Pinatas or Jazz apples).  If seedy blackberries aren't to your liking, try them with blueberries.  The pastry dough is also wonderful in this galette.  It seems like a puff pastry, yet it's simple to make and has a complexity to the taste that goes great with the simple taste of the berries.

Makes 16 3-1/2-inch galettes or turnovers


Pastry

2-1/2  cups (11.4 ounces)  unbleached all-purpose flour, fluffed, scooped and leveled

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

14 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/4 inch chunks

8 ounces cream cheese, cold

1/3 cup heavy cream, cold

Filling

4 cups Pink Lady Apples, (about 4) peeled and cored

1 medium lemon

9 ounces blackberries, washed and patted dry

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Glaze

2 tablespoons heavy cream

2 tablespoons coarse sugar

Directions

For the Pastry: Place the flour, sugar and salt in a processor, and process for 10 seconds to mix ingredients.   Add the butter, and the cream cheese by tablespoonfuls to the processor.  Pulse-process for 8-10 pulses until the fats are cut into lentil-sized pieces.  Add the cream, and process for 8-10 seconds until the dough starts to gather.  Turn the dough out onto a work surface. Smear bits of the dough down against the surface with the heel of the hand, to incorporate the fat into the dough (this is called Fraisage). Gather the dough together, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least two hours and preferably overnight.  

For the Filling: Dice the apples into 1/4-1/2-inch pieces, place in a large bowl,  and sprinkle them with lemon juice.  Stir in the sugar and all but 3 tablespoons of blackberries.  Let the mixture macerate while you prepare the pastry.

Assembly and Baking: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. with a rack in the middle of the oven. Line 2 large cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Cut the dough in half, wrap and return 1/2 to the refrigerator, and roll the remaining piece out on a lightly floured board, into a rectangle, about 1/2-inch thick (size isn't  all that important).  Fold the dough into thirds, like a letter, and then roll the dough again to about 1/16-inch thick

Because you are going to cut the dough into large rounds, and because it is thin, the circles tend to change shape if you try and lift them from the board onto the parchment paper.  Therefore, I like to transfer the entire rolled dough sheet to the parchment lined cookie sheet, and cut out the final shapes right on the sheet.  Once the rounds are cut, the excess dough can be removed.  For a nice serving size, I use a 6-inch cutter (the top of my cookie-cutter box is the perfect size).  Once the edges get turned up, the finished pastry will be about 3-1/2 inches round.  

If you have more than about 1/4 cup of juices in the fruit bowl, drain the fruit, reserving the excess juice.  Stir the cornstarch into the fruit.

Doing 1 pastry at a time, spoon a heaping teaspoonful of filling into the center of a round, leaving about 1-inch all around with no filling on it.  Fold the  inch of dough up, all around the perimeter of the pastry.  The dough will naturally make pleats.  

When all the edges are up, press lightly downward on the pastry top to seal together the pleats and to make it so that when the pastry  bakes it won't open up too much.  

Brush the edges with a little cream, and sprinkle generously with the coarse sugar.  

Place the cookie sheet in the refrigerator while you prepare the second sheet of pastry (if you don't have a refrigerator large enough to accommodate a cookie sheet, this step can be skipped.  The pastries won't be quite as crisp, but no one will complain!). Chill the pastries for about 10 minutes, or until the dough has just firmed up.  Spoon about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of juice (not the reserved juice, but the juice with the cornstarch in it) into the center of each pastry, and set them into the oven.  Bake for about 20-27 minutes, until well browned and bubbly.   

Repeat with the second sheet of pastries.

While the pastries are cooking, you can either make a little glaze or extra fruit to add to the pastries.  Cut the remaining blackberries in half, and either stir in a little of the excess juice,  or some of the juice that has some cornstarch mixed into it.  If it has the starch, it should be heated for 10-15 seconds, or until the raw starch taste is gone and the mixture has thickened lightly.  This extra fruit can either be brushed over the hot fruit (not on the pastry) or a little bit can be spooned on to add texture and moisture to the baked pastries.  

To make turnovers, you need to cut all of the blackberries in half,  and let the fruit macerate with the sugar for at least 20 minutes.  Add the starch just before shaping, as with the galettes.  Roll the dough into a rectangle ( the dough should be a bit thicker - maybe a scant 1/8-inch). You want to cut the rectangles to be about 4x4, so roll the dough to a size that is workable for you, rolling it slightly larger than you need it in case it shrinks when you cut it.

Because your really can't have any juice in these, I like to sprinkle the rectangles with powdered sugar to compensate for the sugar that is left in the juice you can't really use.  After they are sprinkled, cradle 1 rectangle in your hand and spoon a heaping teaspoonful of drained filling into the center (use a slotted spoon because the fruit will continue to ooze juice as it sits).

Bring two opposite pointy sides and seal together, and then seal along the whole edge.

Now you need to make sure that the edge is well sealed.  I pinch it tightly closed and then roll the edge slightly upward, as if you were making a pie crust edge.  Hopefully this will prefent the turnover from splitting open when it bakes.  Set the turnover on a parchment lined sheet.  Cut a slit in the top of each turnover.  Brush the turnovers with either cream, or an egg yolk whisked with 1/2 teaspoon of water, and sprinkle with coarse sugar.  Bake at 400 degrees F. for 20-25 minutes until nicely browned.